Costa Rica is a great place to go birding and solo-birding is rewarding.
In the summer of 2025, I embarked on a three-month solo field trip through Costa Rica, my first visit to the country. Long before I arrived, I spent countless hours researching the country’s provinces, habitats, bird species, access points, and the logistics of traveling independently. I planned the journey myself with the goal of visiting every province and documenting the incredible diversity of birds found across Costa Rica.
Traveling Costa Rica entirely on my own made the experience especially rewarding—and at times challenging—as I navigated unfamiliar roads, landscapes, weather, and field locations while pursuing new bird species. This page begins my long-overdue documentation of that journey. I will add to this story as I have time. I begin with my trip to Northern Costa Rica…
All photos were taken by me and are copyrighted.
Refugio de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro
One of the areas I birded that was really cool was up north around the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge. Many visitors come here via boat ride. I opted to drive. I am so glad I did because a lot of the best birding was along the road there!
Along the way, I witnessed a bunch of Crested Caracaras in the road eating roadkill.
There were families of Northern Jacanas in the wetlands abutting the road and not much traffic so I was able to stop along the way and even occasionally get out of my car to get photos. The dreaded potholes in the dirt roads also are good for making any cars passing go a reasonable speed.
Accommodations were pricey and limited near the refuge. I found a budget room. I got what I paid for as the room was very tiny, with no a/c, no amenities, and I was worried about the exposed area above the shower head. I could hear bats in the ceiling above the room and I think that this is bat guano! It slowly crumbled into my shower.
I regretted booking this place and was happy to leave after spending a couple of nights there.
At least the location was ideal and the property had birds including this rail wandering around behind the building.
I ate all my meals at the same restaurant near the refuge, Restaurante Fógón Caño Negro. I was so thankful that they served great food and that you could sit outside and observe birds while waiting for your food.
Since I was visiting in July, I learned that the only way to visit the reserve was by book a local boat. Other times of the year the water recedes and you can walk on an elevated trail.
I was booking at the last minute, and only for one person, this was a bit of a challenge. Luckily, I found someone will to take me out the following day. It was the only time that I paid for any birding experience during my trip.
I got a number of life birds during the boat ride. I also got to see one bird that I was specifically wanted to see: Boat-billed Heron.
Here are some of the birds I saw on the boat trip and a photo of the type of boat I went on. The first photo is the Boat-billed Heron and the second is the elusive White-throated Crake. I was happy to even get this crappy photo of the crake!
On my way out of the refuge area, I birded the entire country road again. This time it was early in the morning. There were only about 3-4 cars during my hours long slow drive. A highlight was seeing a hawk up close and actually getting a nice photo.
Refugio de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro is a must visit wetland refuge with over 450 bird species and is located near the Nicaraguan border. The refuge protects the lower Río Frío basin, including lagoons, marshes, forest, and seasonally flooded wetlands.